The Perfect Blueprint For Tasting Barolo

How do you set the stage for a Piedmont tasting to remember?  Winemaker Mario Fontana of Cascina Fontana, Frasca sommelier Matthew Mather and Colorado wine distributor Stelvio Selections memorably provided the answer to this question.  Observing this trio upon entering one of the adjacent private dining rooms of Frasca (the celebrated Boulder restaurant project between Master Sommelier Bobby Stuckey and Chef Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson) gave a clear indication that they were going to hit a home run.  After the event, I found that three key aspects played a pivotal role in elevating the tasting experience.

1. The venue was set up beautifully

It’s no secret that Frasca’s wine game is among the best.  I’m always so impressed with their selections, service, and the attention to detail down to the flawless glassware.  Said glassware was displayed in a beautiful fashion along with appropriate materials to take notes.  As an avid note taker this small detail was incredibly appreciated.

2. The winemaker was enthusiastic and passionate

I was thrilled to get a chance to meet Mario Fontana just a few moments before the tasting got started.  We touched on the six generations of winemaking that have made Cascina Fontana what it is today and the importance of terroir.  Part of the conversation also included details on the different vineyards that produce their Dolcetto, Barbera, and Nebbiolo.

Once the event started, we tasted the softer and fruity Dolcetto d’Alba and the bright and vibrant Barbera d’Alba.  The Barolo was next.  Using words like “classical”, “evolution”, and “extracted” to describe his vintages of Barolo from 2009-2013, Mario solidified how weather affects the outcome of the vintage.  He also emphasized the value of consistent methodology while maintaining an original style, the experience and knowledge shown by his winemaking team, and how all of this is done using estate fruit and family owned vineyards.

3. It was an educational format

Frasca sommelier Matthew Mather decided that the conversation might be a bit more animated and constructive if we blind-tasted five different vintages of Cascina Fontana Barolo from 2009-2013.  The labels were shrouded from view and the wine was poured.  This format was conducive to going the extra mile and digging deeper to find descriptors that might possibly provide clues to the vintage.  Everyone (even Mario) had a fun time breaking down the aspects of the wine.  The abbreviated results were such:

 

• 2009 – “Complexity and Freshness” were key descriptors according to Mario. There was quite a bit of precipitation prior to the growing season proceeded by warm and windy conditions and then more rain during maturation.  This wine was a bit more savory on the nose, but then bright and light on the mid-palate followed by huge tannins on the finish.
• 2010 – “Classical”. A long and slow growing season provided high quality fruit.  The wine had a traditional bouquet followed by bright fruit and solid tannins that provided a subtle richness on the back of the palate.  This integrated nicely with a long finish.
• 2011 – “Warm and Extracted”. A large amount of precipitation in the winter provided moisture for the soil during the hot and dry summer.  Despite the breaks in the weather, the grapes were picked two weeks earlier than usual.  The wine was more fruit forward on the nose and palate with appropriate tannic structure.
• 2012 – “Evolution and Freshness”. A huge shift in weather patterns from a very cold winter to a warm, rainy and humid end of the growing season led to a faster ripening vintage.  The wine did stand out in the flight as something of an anomaly.  It seemed earthy but light at the same time with a formidable finish.
• 2013 – “Classical, Fruit, Balance, and Roundness”. Again, the higher precipitation in the winter preceding the growing season was much needed during the hot summer.  A temperate harvest led to a lovely vintage.  The wine had a softer and more subtle structure that was complete with balance, especially for such a young wine.

 

This was an eye-opening experience for me.  I generally gravitate toward French wine and sometimes need to be reminded how influential Italian wine can be.  Will I be hosting a tasting of this caliber anytime soon?  Perhaps.  Seeing how these elements came together for such a great afternoon has given me a great foundation for enriching the blind tasting experience.  An extra special thanks to Mario, Matt, Jeremy, the crew at Frasca, and Chris & Craig with Stelvio Selections for such a creative tasting!