While it is one of my life goals to have the means to open several bottles of Grand Cru Champagne per week, for now I’m living in the (still happy) reality of enjoying bottles from this post’s latter category (with a few higher-end choices sprinkled in from time to time). This final installment of the Ultimate Champagne Post series focuses on two segments: Fine quality Champagne that won’t break the bank, and everyday bottles of sparkling wine meant to be enjoyed regularly.
Let’s first take a look at the mini-splurge category of fine quality bottles below:
(Prices for these selections are typically between $30-$50)
L. Aubry Fils, Premier Cru, Brut, NV – One of my favorite bottles of grower Champagne for the price. What sets the Aubry’s apart is their addition of a small percentage of indigenous varietals like Arbanne, Petit Meslier and Fromentau (a local term for Pinot Gris). While the majority is Pinot Meunier from their 2015 base wine, the balance consists of reserve wines dating back to 1998. Peach, nectarine, malt and minerality all show nicely on the bouquet and the palate. A beautifully structured wine for the price.
Charles de Cazanove, Brut, NV – A fun and flavorful higher production offering at a very approachable price. Aromas of toast, poached pears, river rock and a touch of honey waft from the glass. The palate focuses on apples, chalk, and limestone concluding with a dry, toasty fruit finish.
Chartogne-Taillet, “Cuvée Sainte Anne”, Brut, NV – The only Récoltants-Manipulants (grower) producer in Merfy! Natural practices take precedent from the horse-drawn plows to the native yeasts used during fermentation. Vigneron Alexandre Chartogne doesn’t mind malo and uses very little stainless to accommodate his preference of 228 and 600 liter French oak barrels for fermentation. Biscuit, brine, and creamy lemon curd round out the mid-palate of this 50% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Meunier blend, making way for a bright and enticing finish.
Pehu-Simonet “Face Nord”, Grand Cru, Brut, NV – Fourth generation estate producer David Pehu only uses Grand Cru fruit for his estate bottlings. In fact, the 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay in the blend are coming from Verzenay Grand Cru and Verzy Grand Cru. There’s an interesting dichotomy on the nose and palate with the flinty notes of the terrior and the creamy, leesy aspects of 42 months En-Tirage (time on the lees during secondary fermentation). Delicious and thought provoking.
Bernard Rémy, Brut, NV – Founded in 1968, Bernard Rémy is a small, grower Champagne house with holdings in the Côte des Blancs and the Côte de Sézanne. Their introductory tier Brut shows notes of bright apple, citrus and yellow florals. Bigger effervescence and a slight hint of clotted cream adds to the structure and later evolves into a clean finish.
Finally, we have our last category consisting of everyday bottles that are great to have in your fridge for any night of the week (spoiler alert – none are from Champagne but make more than adequate substitutes). These are perfect for celebrating everyday occasions such as waking up, eating breakfast and making it into work on time:
(Prices for these selections are typically under $30)
Graham Beck, Brut, NV – A full bodied sparkling from South Africa using an almost evenly distributed blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in the blend. It spends 15-18 months on the lees to give it a lush creaminess that compliments the fantastic aromas of French toast, apple, and even a hint of cherry. The Méthod Cap Classique style invokes a Champagne quality for a third of the price.
Bisol, Jeio, Brut, Prosecco Superiore, NV – Sourced from Italy’s Valdobbiadene and the hills of Conegliano, only the higher quality Glera grapes make it into this Prosecco Superiore. Aromas of candied Meyer lemon and key lime set the stage for clean, bright additions of tangerine and nectarines on the palate. The crisp and fruity finish shows focused and linear acidity.
JCB, Burgundy, Brut, NV – Immediately the bouquet focuses on white florals, apple pie, and lemon merengue. There’s a nice perfumed component on the nose that follows through on the palate with light creamy tones and an elevated bubble structure. A tremendous value for a sparkling stunner from Burgundy.
Jean Philippe, Blanquette de Limoux, Brut, 2017 – This vintage French sparkler’s pairing versatility, bubbly effervescence, and inexpensive price point make it an easy choice to pop open even on a weeknight. Some subtle hints of toast, orchard fruit, and light citrus all come together to create a well-balanced flavor profile on the palate. The end result is a bright and dry finish.
May Georges, Céemant de Loire, Brut, NV – The vintners for this 50% Chenin Blanc, 25% Chardonnay, and 25% Pinot Noir blend source these grapes from a combination of three single vineyard sites, one located in Touraine, one in Montlouis, and one along the central Loire river port. Using sustainable vineyard practices the winemakers preserve the traditional characteristics of Cremant de Loire by offering a light and uplifting flavor profile of high-toned citrus and minerality. The clean effervescence comes from primary fermentation in stainless steel and a secondary fermentation that takes place in the bottle. A subtle creamy note is also present due to the wine being aged 24 months in the lees. Pair with an array of light appetizers.
Mont Marçal, Brut, Cava, 2016 – Light, bright, bubbly and refreshing. A true aperitif. Serve this as a welcome drink, with appetizers, or even pour a glass for yourself to celebrate………well, anything! Estate bottled and 18 months on the lees, this vintage Cava has a lovely textural component which produces a softer and more supple bubble structure. The notes of peaches, nectarines, and orchard fruit blend nicely with a savory note for a delicate and uplifting finish.
Naveran, Dama de Barcelona, Brut, Cava, 2016 – Spain produces sparkling wines as well, which they call Cava. While some are mass-produced and unmemorable, quite a few of their Vintage selections show themselves to be of outstanding quality like this one from Naveran. The blend is predominately Chardonnay and is incredibly full-bodied with warm baked orchard fruit, soft minerality, and a creamy undertone that alludes to a cheese Danish pastry. Voluminous on all accounts.
Scarpetta, Brut, Prosecco, 2018 – Prosecco is Italy’s most popular version of sparkling wine. This popularity can sometimes yield a large amount of mediocrity. That’s why when I taste a dry, lightly earthy and herbaceous, vintage Prosecco like this one from Scarpetta, I typically want to taste more of what I’m drinking. Looking deeper into what’s in the glass, we find that the blend is 80% Glera and 20% Chardonnay with restrained fruity and floral aromatics that also don’t go overboard on the palate. Incredibly refreshing.
Veuve de Vernay, Brut, NV – The unique quality of this value-driven French bottling begins with the blend. The varietal composition consists of Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Ungi Blanc, and Folle Blanche. Other interesting aspects include the full and fresh notes of minerals, peaches and apricots. The finer-styled bubble structure not only lends balance, but also contributes to the crisp, lifted dry and fruity finish. At this price, it’s the perfect zero-guilt bottle to pop open whenever you’d like – no occasion required.
